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Celine (brand)

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Celine
Company typeSociété Anonyme
IndustryFashion
Founded1945; 79 years ago (1945)
FounderCéline Vipiana
Headquarters16 rue Vivienne, 75002, Paris, ,
Products
ParentLVMH
Websitewww.celine.com

Celine (formerly spelled Céline, stylized in all caps) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1945 by designer Céline Vipiana. The headquarters are located at 16 rue Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris at the Hôtel Colbert de Torcy, which has French Historic Monument classification.[1]

Séverine Merle has been the Chief Executive Officer since April 2017.[2] Michael Rider, formerly of Ralph Lauren, is the current creative director after the departure of Hedi Slimane in October 2024.[3][4]

History

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Creation of the brand

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In 1945, Céline Vipiana (1915–1997)[5] and her husband, Richard, created one of the first luxury brands in the industry, Céline, a made-to-measure children's shoe business,[6] and opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris.[7] The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.[8]

A new positioning

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Former logo of Celine

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach.[9] Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes.[10] Céline Vipiana remained the designer from 1945 until her retirement in 1988.[11]

In 1964, the launch of the new fragrance "Vent fou"[12] and the new "American Sulky" collection of accessories gained success. The trench coat became the chief product of the house.[13] Prompted by the popularity of leather, Céline opened a leather goods boutique in Florence.[14]

In 1973, Céline redesigned its logo with the intertwined "C" Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians.[15] At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.[16]

The brand's founders wished to be part of a charitable association, so, Richard Vipiana established the Céline-Pasteur Prize, a sponsor for the American Hospital of Paris in 1973.[17]

Acquisition by LVMH

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In 1987, with the approval of the Vipiana family, Bernard Arnault purchased a portion of Céline's capital.[18] In 1996, the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million).[19] LVMH propelled the house to fame with the opening of a flagship boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.[20]

Creative directors

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Early years

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  • 1988–1997: Peggy Huynh Kinh[21]
  • 1997–2003: Michael Kors[22]
  • 2004–2005: Roberto Menichetti
  • 2005–2008: Ivana Omazic[23]

Phoebe Philo, 2008–2018

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A Celine hoodie

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women's Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline.[24] Philo's tenure at Céline began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2010 at Paris Fashion Week.[25] Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision.[26] In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”.[27]

In 2010, Philo received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.[28] Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

In December 2017, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the Fall 2018 collection, which was presented in March of that same year.[29]

Hedi Slimane, 2018–2024

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On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house in February. He directs all Céline collections, extending the brand's offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.[30]

Slimane’s Céline studio has since been based in Los Angeles, with a prototype studio and an atelier in Paris.[31] In September 2018, Slimane presented an updated Celine logo on the brand's Instagram account.[32][33] Slimane created his retail flagship concept stores in Paris, Tokyo, Shanghai, Beverly Hills, Madrid, Milan and London.[34] Slimane replaced the brand's traditional style with his personal signature "driven by youth culture, indie rock and sulking adolescence".[35]

Slimane exited the brand in October of 2024.[3]

Michael Rider, 2024-Present

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On October 2, 2024, LVMH announced the appointment of Michael Rider as the new Creative Director of Celine, set to join in early 2025. He will direct all Celine collections, ranging from leather goods to couture. Previously, Rider was the Creative Director for Ralph Lauren Polo from 2018 to May 2024.[36] He also worked as a design director at Celine during Phoebe Philo's tenure.

CEOs

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Other activities

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In 2000, Celine entered into a worldwide licensing agreement with De Rigo for its collection of sunglasses and frames for corrective eyewear.[41] From 2011, the brand had a five-year licensing agreement with Safilo.[42]

From 2000 to 2011, Interparfums held the worldwide license for the development, manufacture and distribution of Celine fragrance lines.[43] The fragrance lines have since[when?] been managed in-house.[44]

Retail

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Celine boutique in Zhengzhou

The brand operates 178 boutiques worldwide[45] and is distributed through a selective network including the luxury department stores Bergdorf Goodman (New York), Harrods (London), Galeries Lafayette (Paris), and Faradays (Auckland).[46]

Advertising

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For its advertising campaigns, Celine has been working with photographers like Patrick Demarchelier (1998–2001)[47][48] and Michael Thompson (2001).[49] Its brand ambassadors have included Lisa (2020–2024),[50] Danielle Marsh (since 2024)[51] and V (since 2024)[52]

References

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  1. ^ Robert Murphy, The House That Céline Built March 25, 2015
  2. ^ "Céline Finds Next CEO; Plots Online Sales".
  3. ^ a b Guilbault, Laure (2024-10-02). "Hedi Slimane exits Celine". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2024-10-02.
  4. ^ Phelps, Laure Guilbault,Nicole (2024-10-02). "Michael Rider is the new creative director at Celine". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2024-10-02.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  5. ^ "Céline - Vogue.it". Archived from the original on 2017-12-27. Retrieved 2016-03-09.
  6. ^ Celine Archived 2013-02-05 at the Wayback Machine New York Magazine
  7. ^ Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic
  8. ^ vogue.com Céline Archived 2014-07-19 at the Wayback Machine
  9. ^ europa-exclusive.com Celine Archived 2014-08-11 at the Wayback Machine
  10. ^ thinkfashion.com Celine Designer Profile
  11. ^ Céline New York Magazine
  12. ^ Vogue France, Céline
  13. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  14. ^ Céline
  15. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  16. ^ "Céline". Archived from the original on 2015-11-18. Retrieved 2014-07-28.
  17. ^ Vogue France, Céline
  18. ^ "Céline". Archived from the original on 2014-07-19. Retrieved 2014-07-08.
  19. ^ "INTERNATIONAL BRIEFS;Moet Hennessy to Buy Celine Fashion House (Published 1996)". The New York Times. 1996-03-22. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  20. ^ "Celine & Ivana Viplana, Omazic - Fashion Designer | Designers | The FMD". The FMD - FashionModelDirectory.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  21. ^ Houpert, Vanessa. "Celine, l'histoire mode de la marque". elle.fr.
  22. ^ Michael Kors Official biography Archived 2008-06-07 at the Wayback Machine
  23. ^ Ramirez, Elva (2008-10-02). "Celine's Ivana Omazic Takes Final Bow". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  24. ^ Socha, Miles (2008-09-04). "Celine Taps Phoebe Philo". WWD. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  25. ^ "Pre-Owned Céline - Vintage Céline - Farfetch". www.farfetch.com. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  26. ^ "Céline appoints Phoebe Philo as creative director". Archived from the original on 2016-03-06. Retrieved 2014-08-05.
  27. ^ "Featured designer: Celine". www.dailytelegraph.com.au. 2013-10-18. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  28. ^ "The mastermind behind the transformation of Céline". 2012-11-01. Retrieved 2020-10-09.
  29. ^ "Phoebe Philo to Leave Céline". WWD. December 22, 2017.
  30. ^ "Hedi Slimane Named Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline". BusinessWire. January 21, 2018.
  31. ^ Matthew Schneier (21 January 2018), Hedi Slimane Taking the Reins at Céline New York Times.
  32. ^ Pithers, Ellie. "Céline Unveils A New Logo". Retrieved 2018-10-06.
  33. ^ "Fashion's branding crisis". Fast Company. 2018-09-06. Retrieved 2018-10-06.
  34. ^ Hedi Slimane’s store designs ramp up retail at Celine Wallpaper*, AMY SERAFIN, 24 May 2019
  35. ^ A provocative designer has just blown up a 70-year-old brand. But to what end? The Washington Post, Robin Givhan, September 29, 2018
  36. ^ Milnes, Hilary (2024-05-13). "Polo Ralph Lauren's Michael Rider to exit". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2024-10-02.
  37. ^ Miles Socha (7 March 2006), Brunschwig in Line For Celine CEO Job Women's Wear Daily.
  38. ^ Miles Socha (4 September 2008), Celine Taps Phoebe Philo Women's Wear Daily.
  39. ^ EXCLUSIVE: Céline Finds Next CEO; Plots Online Sales Women's Wear Daily, 24 February 2017.
  40. ^ EXCLUSIVE: Céline Finds Next CEO; Plots Online Sales Women's Wear Daily, 24 February 2017.
  41. ^ Katherine Weisman (24 May 2000), CELINE INKS GLOBAL LICENSE WITH DE RIGO FOR EYEWEAR Women's Wear Daily.
  42. ^ Luisa Zargani (14 November 2011), Céline Inks Deal With Safilo Women's Wear Daily.
  43. ^ Jennifer Weil (24 May 2000), CELINE IN LICENSE DEAL WITH INTER PARFUMS Women's Wear Daily.
  44. ^ Jennifer Weil (18 August 2019), Celine Teases New Scents by Hedi Slimane Women's Wear Daily.
  45. ^ Muret, Dominique (8 November 2022). "Celine ouvre une sixième boutique au cœur de Paris". Fashion Network. Retrieved 31 December 2022.
  46. ^ "For the first time ever, Celine's coveted womenswear is available in New Zealand — landing exclusively at Faradays today". 17 August 2023.
  47. ^ Katherine Weisman (22 January 1999), Paris's Fashion Fling Women's Wear Daily.
  48. ^ Katherine Weisman (7 January 2000), Paris Accents The Power Of Product Women's Wear Daily.
  49. ^ Miles Socha and Robert Murphy (26 January 2001), Paris: It’s Sex And The City Women's Wear Daily.
  50. ^ Joelle Diderich (23 July 2024), Blackpink’s Lisa Named Louis Vuitton Brand Ambassador Women's Wear Daily
  51. ^ Kirsty Thatcher (28 March 2024), NewJeans’ Danielle Joins Celine As Global Ambassador Elle
  52. ^ Kristopher Fraser (8 July 2024), BTS’ High-profile Brand Ambassadorships: Jin Shines for Fred Jewelry, J-Hope Models for Louis Vuitton and More Women's Wear Daily
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